Mangroves and More

Even though the past week has been very quiet on campus because of the holidays to celebrate the end of Ramadan I've had some busy days away from campus.  On Saturday 3rd August Jaya and Purwi Pramono arrived at 6:30am to take Laurel (my colleague and fellow volunteer) and me to the mangroves area at Benoa Bay.  The early start was necessary to catch the high tide. 

 

Benoa Bay is the large estuary on the south eastern coast of Bali where the land narrows into the neck which connects the main part of Bali to the Bukit Peninsula.  On the western side across this narrow strip of land is the Ngurah Rai International Airport.  The runway starts out in the sea on the west and extends almost across the isthmus.  The main commercial and fishing ports for southern Bali are found in Benoa Bay.

 

Although the hustle and bustle of city, tourist centres, docks and airport is not far away, the mangrove area in the bay was peaceful and relaxing. 

 

Local fishing boats moored in the inlet



Fishing boats, pleasure craft and passenger boats at the small pier

This is Bali - there's a small shrine everywhere

At a small pier we read the displayed material about Pokmaswas, a local marine environment monitoring group before boarding a small boat and setting off along the channels through the mangroves.

 

The mangroves provide a breeding ground for many types of marine life, and above the water the bushes are home to many kinds of birds, including the large white heron.

 

Yes, that's a large white heron

  

Cruising quietly along the channel between mangroves

 

Jaya and Purwi Pramono.  The new bridge and
 tollgate can just be seen in the background.

A section of walkway through the mangroves

We prepare to go below the new bridge across the bay

On the bridge's carriageway even the
light poles have a local Balinese touch

The new bridge carrying a toll road will open soon to link the airport, Sanur Bypass and Nusa Dua areas, thus reducing travel time between those places.  It will also reduce congestion in the Jimbaran area by removing a great deal of through traffic.

Fisherman and bridge with tollgate

Our cruise and walk through the mangrove area was most enjoyable.  This area is a valuable natural resource and environmental safeguard for many animals in this area but its continued life is not guaranteed.  In the backwaters and trapped among the mangrove roots are huge amounts of mainly plastic waste.  The area serves as a kind of "litter trap" for water discharged from some of Bali's rivers which empty into the bay.

 

The "Bali Post" has recently carried several articles about local protests against the misuse of the area and the plans to reclaim an area for use as a luxury tourist and residential development.  There is even legal action by environmental NGOs against the Governor of Bali for permitting development (seen as "exploitation") of this area.

 

On June 23rd, the day after I arrived in Bali, soccer superstar Cristiano Ronaldo visited the area in his role as a special "Mangrove Ambassador" for the Mangrove Care Forum of Bali (MCFB).  Some information about the MCFB is included below.  The full article is available on Wikipedia (see reference below).

 

Paul in Bali

 

Footnote:

Mangrove Care Forum Bali (MCFB), also known as Forum Peduli Mangrove Bali (FPMB), is formed with the aim to protect, preserve, rehabilitate, replant and educate, as a concerted effort to save the mangroves. Supported by the Artha Graha Peduli Foundation, the team at the Mangrove Care Forum Bali draws from 16 years of experience the foundation has in caring for and operating the Tambling Wildlife Nature Conservation Park, located at South Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park, within 356,000 hectares of Tropical Rainforest and 21,600 hectares of Marine Nature Reserve.
 

The mangrove forest under the care of The Mangrove Care Forum Bali is located in the Ngurah Rai Grand Forest Park, a 1,373.5 hectare mangrove forest at the Benoa Bay Area in Bali. The mangrove forest suffers from severe pollution and misuse, and debris and rubbish from nearby villages. Deforestation of trees and littering its grounds are a common sight. The focus of the Mangrove Care Forum Bali is to involve the communities surrounding the mangrove and enlist regular help to clean up and create a safe environment for plants and marine life to thrive. A further goal is to prevent further abrasion of coastline and to regrow the affected areas to lush mangrove vegetation.

 

The full article is at:
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mangrove_Care_Forum_Bali

More Campus Happenings

The campus is still rather quiet.  Most students are still on vacation or undertaking work experience placements.  In general, only the new students and a few who come on campus for administrative matters are around.  It'll be very different at the end of the month when all classes get under way.  I'm kept busy most days with 2 classes (of 100 mins each) of  "Matriculation English" for the new students in the morning.  In the afternoons I prepare lessons and carry out my other role as "conversation coach" by speaking with staff and students in their own surrounds and out of the classroom.

Although it is a quiet time in general, you never quite know what will happen day by day.  As I can't read the notices which appear in the foyer I often get a surprise.  However there were a couple of recent events I did know of in advance.

Last Friday (July 26th) the Blood Donor Service of the Red Cross came to campus to collect blood.  I was unable to donate as I'm still in the "withholding period" after my whole blood donation in Adelaide just days before I left for Bali. 

Notice boards around the campus carried this sign for a week or more

The logo on an Indonesian Red Cross shirt

Throughout the morning there was a steady stream of students waiting to donate, and even a few of staff.

Pak Darma, one of University's 2 Vice Rektors shows
 that it doesn't hurt a bit.  But Pak, where's the needle?

Evan, a 3rd semester student, donates blood in the "mobile clinic"

All donors received a "thankyou" bag containing a few treats.

I mentioned to the Red Cross staff that I was a donor at home and had given more than 100 donations of whole blood or plasma.  Although at home many donors have given many more donations than I have, it seems that "high" numbers are not common here.  They were impressed at my tally and told me that on reaching 100 donations in Indonesia the donor gets a letter and special certificate from the President. 

Technicians and makeup crew wait as a segment is filmed

Yesterday morning (Thursday 1st of August) the small grassed area in front of the University's main administration and teaching building took was crowded.  TV camera crews, chefs, assistants and a small group of onlookers (including me) were crowded around an impromptu "outdoor kitchen".  Bali TV was there to record well know local chefs preparing "signature dishes" based on the 30 "iconic" Indonesian cuisines.  The Mayor of Denpasar (capital of Bali) and party came to participate in a buffet to recognise Undhira's support and promotion of the "Iconic 30" movement.

There's just enough time to touch up the makeup before the cameras roll

Another chef explains the subtleties of this dish

The cameras have stopped, so there's
 time for a joke and a casual pose.

A chef's assistant brings ingredients from the
campus training restaurant to the TV set.

I lost track of the number of chef's who explained and cooked various "iconic" dishes.  I did see the creation of the Ayam Betutu Liku (below).  It smelled delicious but was probably a little too hot for my chilli-sensitive taste buds.  Unfortunately the head and claws were left on the chicken and this somewhat reduced my visual appreciation of the resulting dish.

Ayam Betutu Liku (Balinese spiced chicken)

The "kitchen set" seen from the balcony.

The tray of ingredients (minus the salmon which was still
in the fridge) for the iconic "pepes ikan laut" dish.  Here we
have spiced salmon wrapped and steamed in a banana leaf.

A wonderful book for lovers of Balinese food

The "Pepes Salmon" dish was prepared by a young female chef from "Bumbu Bali" restaurant.  I have this excellent cooking book by the founder of that restaurant, Chef Heinz von Holzen, and have worked through several of the recipes it contains.  I can highly recommend it as both interesting and suitable for novice cooks of Balinese food.

One of 3 framed certificates presented to Undhira recognising
the university's commitment to traditional teaching and
promoting traditional and iconic Indonesian cuisines.

The recorded material will be edited and shown on Bali TV in the Sunday morning local affairs program.  I've already had a "cameo appearance" in one of these and in a news clip, and may squeeze into this show.  Autographs anyone?



Who argues when a man with a big knife says "come
 this way"?   Mr Eko, head chef in Undhira's hospitality
training centre escorts Bu Laurel up the front steps.

Eventually all the chefs had cooked, all the interviews had been recorded and the delicious food had been eaten.  The camerman decided he needed one final scene to complete the program so he convinced a few participants and bystanders to gather on the steps.  Mr Eko (our head chef with the big knife) coached us in our words "Jeg Jaen!!" (we were shouting "delicious" in the Balinese language - extra loud and forceful second word).  On cue we would shout our words, give a big smile, and then give a 2 thumb salute.  Got it?  Right, easy!  How can so many things go wrong?  After 8 or so attempts the camerman was satisfied and we could leave.  It had been an interesting experience.

Shouting our slogan "jeg jaen" ('delicious' in the Balinese language)
 for the Bali TV crew.  How many things can go wrong with so few words
to say? Well ... quite a lot as we soon found out.  This is about "Take 5".

Paul in Bali

Shopping fun

Here in Dalung there are a number of small supermarkets which offer a reasonable range of locally popular food items.  Neither of the two closest has much fresh food as this is usually bought from the small street traders or in the traditional market. 

 

The closest "supermarket" is the "Mini Mart" which has a smaller collection than the Bintang Supermarket, and which caters mainly for people buying a few things on the way past.  I rarely see big baskets of stuff.

 

If I'm not in a hurry I roam the aisles looking for things which I wouldn't normally find at home, and it can be an amusing diversion.  Sometimes it's just the surprise in seeing things I've not found before, or finding products which look like things from home, but which are different.  It must be many years since I last saw Pepsodent toothpaste at home, but here it is a big seller.

 

The Tim Tams (made in Malaysia or Indonesia) are different - they are a little smaller and the chocolate is "tropical blend", and not quite as smooth or milky as ours.  There are several flavours here, but I think that the strangest is "keju" (cheese flavoured).  Cheese flavourings are quite popular even though you have to hunt for anything other than processed cheddar in small sticks or slices.

 

Here are a few items I photographed during my visit to the store yesterday.  The shop assistants wonder why I'm taking pictures of eggs, or sardines.



Danish butter biscuits are popular but the
packaging looks so quaint and old-fashioned.
Perhaps that's why they sell so well?



This is a big seller - 25kg bags of rice. 
They just about walk out of the
shop from the large stacks.



Here's a packet I like, even though I'm in no hurry to try the product.  These contain the "just add water and mix" blend to make the batter for "pisang goreng", or fried bananas.  I like fried bananas, but would rather not have them strawberry or cappuccino flavoured.

 

Flavoured batter mix for fried bananas

Tiny speckled eggs from the Balinese 'puyuh' bird.
It's an almost flightless bird of the forests.

Vanessa Bread comes in green or white.  Both are soft and
sweet, but the green is coloured with pandanus extract.

Here are some of my favourites from past visits to Bali.  Jungle Juice is a tropical fruit juice blend - nothing special, but the name sounds exciting and exotic.  I'm still amused at the concept of "Pocari Sweat".  It's a sports drink from Japan - I had visions of someone collecting sweat from the "pocari", a strange creature only found at the factory.



Interesting drink products on the shelf



When the weather is hot, reach for a cool can of "chilly sardines".
The new cans no longer have this amusing spelling mistake.

Then there was the time I was in a hurry and without my glasses.  The "Super Burbur" packet was next to the Instant Noodles and I misread "burbur" (porridge) for "bumbu" (spices).  Once for dinner was enough.

Fish flavoured porridge with crisps.  It's also
available in beef and chicken curry  flavour.

Happy shopping in your favourite supermarket or store.

 

Paul in Bali



Saturday in Singaraja

The Rektor of the University is keen for Laurel and I to get out and about, to see more of Bali, in our spare time.  This has made it much easier to request a car and driver to take us to places of interest away from Kampus (Indonesian spelling using "k" for the "hard c" - very sensible).  Last Saturday we drove (no, the English teacher in me says "were driven") north across the mountainous centre of Bali to the north coast.  Light rain was falling in Dalung when we left, and as we went north and into the mountains the rain and fog increased.  Pura Bratan in Lake Bratan, near Bedugal, could barely be seen through the cloud.  Once we were over the crest and on the northern edge of the mountains we left the cloud and drove into bright sunshine.  Once on the north coast we felt hot again.



Singaraja is the capital of the Bulelung Regency (one of the 8 administrative subdivisions of Bali which were based on the old Kingdoms of pre-Dutch times).  It was the Dutch capital of Bali until after independence when Denpasar was chosen.  A north coast seaport was much more convenient to the Dutch as this was within easy reach of other important colonial cities around the Java and Bali Seas.  The south coast was further away, and was also exposed to the swells and storms of the Indian Ocean.  Now the port has largely silted up and sea traffic either goes around the island to Benoa in the south or to another port in the west.  The city's name means "Lion King" - and it's the same "Singa" (Lion) as in "Singapore" and "Singha" beer of Thailand.  I wonder if Disney has tried to get a "royalty fee" for using "their name"!

Singaraja's "Lion King"

The Winged Lion, the symbol of the city, can be found in many places around the city.  The main statue is rich in symbolism beyond the representation of the lion.  The large base is 5-sided and represents the Pancasila (or Five Principles which underpin modern Indonesian society).  Each wing contains 17 long feathers; the lion holds a sheaf of corn with 8 leaves and 45 grains.  The "17", "8" and "45" represent the date of Indonesian Independence 17/8/(19)45.



The winged lion atop his 5-sided column



The winged lion in stone and on the city's emblem

 You can spot many little things which are novel to us, but which are essentially Balinese. 

Some traffic lights have a miniature Balinese roof
made of "ijuk", the black fibre from the sugar palm.
It is commonly used for sacred temple structures.

We visited the small Buleleng Museum, now housed in the main building of a compound which was formerly a Dutch colonial administrative centre. Although the display and storage environment would appal western conservation specialists, the local staff have done their best to display an interesting collection of artefacts, photographs and paintings.  Some of the archaeological finds go back to Neolithic and Bronze ages.

The Buleleng Museum on the southern approach to Singaraja

 

An interesting pair of "handbags".   The left example is carved from wood and was used for carrying a stock of betel nut.  Just the thing for a casual chew!

 

 

A "pocket sized" mortar and pestle for grinding betel nut into a paste.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Close to the waterfront in what was the heart of the old dock area is the colourful Chinese temple of Ling Gwan Kiong.  It's a good indication of the importance of the non-Balinese groups in this area.



Ling Gwan Kiong temple, Singaraja

 

It was hot on the land, but gentle sea breezes made the end of the short pier a pleasant place to enjoy a cool drink and small snack.

 

At the end of the pier you can escape from the heat on the waterfront

One of the many mosques in Singaraja is visible from the sea side

On the waterfront in the old dock area is the conspicuous monument to Yudha Mandala Tama, a Balinese freedom fighter killed by gunfire from a Dutch warship early in the struggle for liberation from the colonists.

Yudha Mandala Tama points out to sea from his elevated platform



Laurel decides to take it easy
whilst I look for new attractions



After our brief visit to Singaraja we set off to the "renowned" beach resort of Lovina, some 12 km to the west.  Lovina is perhaps best known as the place to spot dolphins.  Most mornings at sunrise a few turn up, braving the many pursuing powerboats in the expectation of getting fish.  It has the reputation of being "laid back" and "peaceful", which it certainly was.  The "resort area" stretches along several kilometres of beach frontage and it's hard to point to any real focus.  Unlike 2011 when enterprising hawkers pursued us along the beach, this visit was very low key.  There were few people on the beach, and all was quiet.  We ate lunch at yet another "Bintang" café ("bintang" means "star" - it's just popularly associated with the beer) and tried to explain some of the finer points of an AFL match screening on a large TV to Vivi, an Undhira student from East Java, with good English skills and a sense of adventure.

 

Fishing boats at Lovina

It's hot out there!  Vivi takes shelter whilst capturing an image

Fishing boats ride at anchor off Lovina Beach

The beach shelter offers a little relief from the sun

After a beach stroll, lunch and a coffee we returned to the vehicle and started the home journey.  As we started the long climb up the northern slopes of the mountains we could see dark clouds gathering on the peaks.  The light was fading when we reached the parking area for Gitgit Falls.  The name is pronounced with a hard "G" (as in the "g" of get) rather than the soft "g" because "jit-jit" means "bottoms".  We walked in to the falls, past the many now-closed stalls and encountered very few traders trying to sell their wares.

 

Small rice terraces along the path to Gitgit Falls.  The
smoke from smouldering rubbish spoils so many views.

Recently planted rice seedlings

Because of recent rain there was a reasonable flow of water coming over the 40m falls and some hardy (or perhaps "foolhardy"?) Australians had just left the water.

 

The falls from downstream



Laurel and Vivi at Gitgit Falls

From Gitgit we drove south and up into the mountains where we soon encountered fog and rain.  By the time we reached the little temple on the northern outskirts of Candikuning it was already quite dark,  We stopped for a few minutes to allow Laurel time to capture some "monkey" photos to post on Facebook.  They seemed to be able to stay in the rain and fog and out of the car's headlights so it was not easy to photograph them.  They are such unpredictable, capricious and sometimes aggressive little animals that we took care to not open the windows too far whilst they were close to the car. 



Mother and baby monkey (through rain and fog)

After a short time we got some useful shots and set off again, stopping only at Candikuning market to allow our driver to buy corn, strawberries and other treats for his wife.  The rain was with us most of the way back to the Kampus. at Dalung.

 

It was the first trip to the north coast for Laurel, and my third, as I visited the little town of Seririt in 2010 and Singaraja - Lovina in 2011.  It was a long drive, but a nice break from the familiar surrounds of Dalung in South Bali.

 

Paul in Bali