Galungan time

“Galungan” is one of the major festivals in traditional (Hindu) Bali.  It marks the beginning of a special time in the year when the Balinese believe that the ancestral spirits return to earth to visit their former homes.   After 10 days they leave the earth and return to heaven, and this event is marked by the festival of Kuningan.   University Dhyana Pura classes for the new Academic Year were deferred until after the festival of Galungan because many students return to their home towns and villages to celebrate the festival with families.

 

Welcome and greeting signs at campus gate

Last Saturday (9/9/12) was Kuningan Day and many, but not all, businesses around Dalung and in Sanur where I spent Friday evening and much of Saturday were shut.  Some roads on the drive from Sanur to Dalung were closed adjacent to temples and there were several detours on the taxi ride home from Sanur.  In places small ceremonial processions made their ways towards temples decorated specially for the occasion.

 

As I understand (perhaps incorrectly, as it is an unfamiliar concept for me) the gods and ancestral spirits come back to their former dwelling places to live again in the houses of their descendants.  The “visitors” must be made to feel welcome so each house raises a “penjor”, a long decorated bamboo pole with the top curved over under the weight of suspended offerings and decorations.  Some poles are simple and quite basic, and others are highly decorated, and quite expensive.  Last week a taxi driver told me “these must be very rich people” as we passed a group of houses with elaborate decorations.



Penjor in street near campus

Penjor line a street of a small
town in Tabanan Regency

In the days leading up to Galungan people prepare foods, gifts and decorations, and motor cyclists carry long poles back home.  Certain days during this festive period have special names and functions, and the festival ends with Kunigan, after 10 days Galungan.  The decorations linger in the streets for some time after that (just as we don’t take Christmas lights down immediately).  During the festivals prayers and offerings are made for the spirits and families with ancestors who are buried and not yet cremated will make offerings at the graves.

 

 

 



Penjor can be ready made or D.I.Y



Add some of these to the bamboo
pole for a customised decoration

Galungan is celebrated on the Wednesday of Dunggulan, the 11th week in the traditional Balinese (“Pawukon”) calendar.  This calendar has only 210 days.  Our western Gregorian calendar has 365 days so in 4 years (Gregorian) there are 7 cycles of the Pawukon calendar), so in most years Galungan is celebrated twice.   I did not experience this festival in either of my previous trips.

 

There are always closures for ceremonies
("upacara") - it's part of the way of life in Bali

There were interesting decorations in front of many houses in Dalung, but as most of Dalung is of quite recent construction many folk go back to their traditional family villages because there may be the first generation of their family living in the Dalung house. Hence there are no ancestors who have departed from that house.

 

A house in Dalung

 

Details of the decorations

The offering at the end of the pole
which bends the tip downwards

 

A small neighbourhood temple
in Dalung (one of many)

Penjor swing in the morning
breeze on Galungan day



Decorated base of penjor

I saw only very small ceremonies at the temples near campus, but on TV there was coverage of big ceremonies at major temples where large numbers of participants joined the festivities and worship.

 



An elaborate penjor with dragon head

 

 

The dragon head

Stores have special “Galungan & Kuningan” sales, banners wishing people “happy festival” messages are common, and political and civic figures are depicted on large posters wishing people a happy festival period.  If I’m back in Bali next year at my usual time I will not see Galungan as in 2013 it falls on March 27th and October 23.

 

Paul in Bali

September 2012