Just another day in Ubud? (Part 2)

See also Part 1 and “Photo Gallery - Just another day in Ubud?”

(Continued from Part 1)

We had spotted the large black bull on our first day in Ubud.  It was now joined by a large tower (“bade”) richly decorated in gold and bearing the portrait of the man to be cremated.

 

Here "size counts", and the size of the bull and tower indicates that this was provided by a wealthy family (although this would put a dent in their fortunes).

 

Participants and spectators alike filled the narrow street, providing a potential market for vendors selling drinks, snacks, sarongs and sashes. A local man offered guided cremation tours with expert commentary. In Bali things don’t happen until the “right time” although what is “right” may not be apparent to outsiders, so eventually gongs rang out, offerings were made, and the many men in matching polo-shirts took their places in the large bamboo frame on which the bull and tower rested. There were chants and cheers; the band struck up a tune; the men took the weight of the structures, and with great excitement the procession set off.

 

 

 

They only moved a short distance before the horns of the bull snagged power and phone lines which had not been pushed up quite high enough by the men with the long bamboo poles. Wires were raised and they were off again, only to stop again a little further on. After a few false starts the wires were eventually cleared and the bull set off down the street. The porters shook the bull, as if to toss off the rider clasping the bull’s neck. This was to symbolise the difficult passage of the soul to the next life. At the street corners the structure was turned so that the spirit would be confused and unable to make its way back to the starting point.

Who needs power lines anyway?

The golden tower followed the bull and it too snagged lines. Relatives ahead of the tower pulled on ropes to symbolise their connection to the deceased. The musicians, friends and relatives people carrying offerings for the cremation, and onlookers followed the procession down the street towards the cemetery and cremation area. I was keen to attend the final stage but Judy was not, so we left the crowd and went for lunch (no pork, thanks).



Not such a happy day for this piglet

As we ate lunch we heard music and shouting. Men with poles were propping up the power lines again – most of the phone lines had already been pulled down. Along came another bull and tower, with attendant crowd. Although the style was similar, this was not the “deluxe” version of the earlier event, but a more modest occasion. We watched with interest until the procession had disappeared down the street then returned to our lunch.

Porters halt as their tower goes
under lines not pulled down by
the earlier procession.

Activities were proceeding smoothly at the palace. Guests and performers were coming and going and traffic at the corner in the centre of Ubud was still held up. The day was hot and humid so we returned to our room ("Nick’s Hidden Cottages”) for a welcome cold drink and swim in the pool.

Our "cottage" (lower right half
of the building on the left
and the inviting pool.

After a rest we returned to the palace area and could see the guests filing past and offering best wishes to the king and his new bride (I’m not sure if she will be a princess or queen). After dinner we returned to the palace. Although many guests were leaving the party was not over. Gatekeepers allowed us in to join the guests as a new round of dancing began. We saw several dances we had not yet seen elsewhere, but this unexpected entertainment was cut short when heavy rain suddenly poured down. Even kings have their days rained on. In the adjacent pavilion an elaborate screen had been set up for guests and we saw the first 20 minutes of a traditional shadow puppet show accompanied by the gamelan orchestra. Clearly this would be a long performance and as we could not follow the dialogue, and hence the subtleties of the action, we left and clutching our small umbrellas made our way across flooded streets to a nearby café.

The trumpeter was outstanding

Casa Luna has a very good continental bakery, so we enjoyed coffee and tarts to the sounds of an excellent 4 piece jazz band with an outstanding trumpeter. The rain grew even heavier and water entered through the open sides of the café forcing the keyboard player and sound mixer to rig up plastic shelters to protect the electronics. After an hour there was no sign of the rain easing so we waded through the water to get into a taxi to take us home. The steep stretch of road at the start of our street looked like a series of rapids and the driver could hardly see through the rain along the unlit road, but after an interesting ride and quick sprint along the path between the padi fields we made it home.

We went to sleep to the sound of frogs and the pouring rain after an interesting day, just another day in Ubud.

Photo Gallery - Weekend reunion in Jogya

Click this link to enter the Photo Gallery:
https://picasaweb.google.com/110038041647560744460/JogyaReunion#

Photo Gallery - Just another day in Ubud?

Just another day in Ubud? (Part 1)

What is there to do in Ubud when you’ve been to the most popular sites? Sometimes something different happens.

Ubud is often described as the cultural soul and heartland of Bali. Sometimes mass tourism destroys what it comes to see, but in Ubud that hasn’t happened. Ubud is not the unique artistic village of 70 years ago but the great increase in visitor numbers has not destroyed its charm and attraction.

During our first 3 days we covered many of the popular attractions so what were we to do on our final day? Would it be just another day in Ubud?

The Balinese operate 2 calendars of different cycle length in addition to the standard western calendar. They have many special days and holidays, and some days are deemed to be especially auspicious for important ceremonies and events. As luck would have it, Sunday 3rd October, was an especially auspicious day.

Our first stop was the Royal Palace. The issue of “Royalty” in Ubud is confusing. The local “royals” span many connected families. They trace their origins back to a split between princes in the court in nearby Peliatan. Dutch rule from 1906 effectively ended their legal powers but the kings and princes still have sentimental support, influence, prestige, and wealth. Many members of the Ubud family operate business in Ubud, and there are many sites described as “Puri” or “palace.” Australia has a strong connection with the Ubud royal family as Australian women have married into the family and some members have studied in Australia.

 

Decorated Palace Gate


 On this day Puri Saren Agung palace was the setting for traditional celebrations of the wedding of the king, Tjokorda Bagus Dwi Santana Max Kerthayasa, to Happy Selma, an actress & artist from Jakarta. She is a Muslim, and that led to some complications and questions about the significance of some of the rituals. In fact they had sidestepped some problems by earlier marrying in a civil ceremony in Sydney. I learned this from often conflicting stories in the local media and online (so it must be true!).

 Uniformed palace officials checked that only guests were admitted but allowed interested onlookers to look through the gates into the courtyard. We sat in the shade of an adjacent pavilion and watched as the streams of guests arrived, and traffic tried to negotiate the obstructions and road closures.

A quick glimpse at activities in the court yard

On the pavilion’s stage we watched dancers apply makeup, dress in their splendid traditional costumes, and then wait for their time to perform at the palace.

Dancers - dressed and waiting for their call

A final check that makeup is just right

We are on at last

It would be an all-day affair so after a couple of hours we moved on to Jalan Hanoman.


To be continued  (Part 2 to follow soon).

See also the Blog entry  “Photo gallery - Just another day in Ubud”.

A Balinese Cooking Class

"Travel broadens the mind" as a popular saying puts it.  When you consider the many culinary delights available to travellers who are happy to leave their own cuisines behind for a time, we might expand that saying to "Travel broadens the waistline as well as the mind".   Ben's cooking class gave us an interesting insight into the creation of a traditional Balinese dinner which was greatly appreciated by the  16 student-participants.

The delicious dishes we had eaten stimulated our interest in Balinese food which is an expression of Balinese culture and is a creative process worthy of further study. A web search revealed the class at the Anika Guesthouse, Kuta. We booked an afternoon/evening session and went there after my last class at college. There are also famous established classes at Ubud (we had just returned from there) and Sanur (booked, hard for us to get to).



The entrance to
the "classroom"

The entry from a side street near the airport gives no hint of what is within (or more properly "above", as the class is held in its own area above the guest house).  

The "Class room" has an entrance at one end and is open along one side.  Students sit along a central table and look towards the cooking and preparation area.  The traditional materials and decorations all contribute to a sense of involvement and authenticity.  The cooking area contains traditional ovens and places where sates can be grilled over charcoal.



The "class room"

Our class of 16 was only just "multi-national" - a Belgian couple and 14 Australians.  We were welcomed with a glass of refreshing cold Hibiscus tea.  At the end of the table were dishes of herbs and spices to be used in the meal.  Ben, our host and chef, explained the properties and use of each item, noting differences between the Balinese ingredient and Australian equivalent so we could make adjustments when cooking dishes with our own ingredients  (for example, use less Australian garlic as it is stronger than the milder, sweeter Balinese garlic).



The cooking area

 As well as advice on selection and preparation of ingredients we were given insights into how to get the right balance of sweet, sour, salty, bitter and spicy.  That's not an easy task, but a vital one if the food is to taste as it should.

Herbs and spices produce
the typical Balinese flavour

We were shown how (I hesitate to say how much we mastered) to wrap food in banana leaf, fold and seal it.  It's very tricky for clumsy fingers.

The "Balinese food processor" requires strength and perserverence as well as a good technique.  It is a flat grinding stone which is used to reduce coarsely chopped ingredients to a smooth paste used in sauces or as a marinade.  If used incorrectly it is easy to include unwanted fine grit scraped from the stone's surface.

Apron on and ready to go



Making Nasi Goreng - it's all in
the way you grip the wok!

 Even "wok technique" was different.  When making the Nasi Goreng it was necessary to repeatedly press the rice against the wok edges and smooth it out, then recombine it.





Some of the finished dishes - just
waiting to be eagerly consumed



Sates - traditionally just 3
pieces of meat per skewer

So, what did we make and eat?   Mie (Balinese style noodles), beans, nasi goreng, sates, marinated fish steamed in banana leaf, chicken curry, gado gado (mixed vegetable with peanut sauce) .... and more ...

Desserts - I love the sticky black rice with coconut cream milk, and the Balinese crepes with coconut and palm sugar syrup filling.  Just delicious.



Not just a great night's entertainment with a
wonderful dinner, but ... a certificate as well.
(Just to prove we really were there and
we weren't dreaming it all!)



More photos can be seen in the accompanying blog on this site:   

"Photo Gallery - Balinese Cooking Class"

If you are in Bali and want to have this enjoyable experience, here are the contact details.  Mention you saw the ad on the web and you get 30% off the "walk in" price.  (No discount for mentioning that you saw it here.)

Anika - Balinese Cooking Class

Jalan Elang 3, Tuban, Bali, Indonesia

http://cookingclass.anikaguesthouse.com

Email: info@anikaguesthouse.com



Photo Gallery - Balinese Cooking Class

A weekend reunion in Jogya

On Friday 17th September I flew to Jogjakarta (Jogya), a large city in central Java. At the departure gate in Denpasar I noticed a man looking at me. I checked over my shoulder to see if he was looking past me, but no, he was looking at me. After he caught my eye several times he came over. “Do you remember me?” he asked. I’ve met many people here and they all say “Do you remember me?” I replied honestly that his face was very familiar, but I couldn’t place him. I recognised his voice as soon as he said “Oh, you’ve forgotten your teacher”. It was Pak Budi, my Indonesian teacher in Adelaide. I would recognise him on the street in Adelaide, but did not expect to see him there. On the flight he sat in the seat behind me.

At Jogya I was met by my friend Edih Suwadji and his son Denny who came across from Jakarta. I last saw Edih in Adelaide in February 1974. We worked together at CSIRO for about 16 months. We used to say that one day we would meet and visit Borobudur. Now, 36 years later, we had finally caught up and the visit was about to take place.


Borobudur is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is the world's largest Buddhist monument.  The massive structure was completed in about 800 AD but it fell into disuse when the centre of power in Java moved west in about 1000 AD. Ash from nearby volcanoes covered it and then the jungle claimed it. “Recovery work” began under Sir Stamford Raffles in 1814 and continued for many years. A major stabilisation and restoration program was carried out between 1975 and 1982 by the Indonesian Government and UNESCO. Check online (Wiki or other) for details.


Edih stands at the base of a fog covered Borobudur

The gates to the park were shut when arrived at 6 on Saturday morning, and fog covered the site. With my temporary resident’s permit I got “domestic” rather than “international” visitor entry (quicker and cheaper). The lower levels of the massive stupa rose up ahead of us into the cloud. The morning sun soon burnt away the fog so that as we moved higher up we saw blue sky overhead, but this was only temporary as haze soon covered the sky. It’s an amazing structure. It sits on a square foundation about 120 metres across, and was probably surrounded by an artificial lake. Above the foundation are 9 “platforms” of decreasing size. The lower 6 are square, and the top 3 are circular. The walls of each layer are decorated with reliefs (2672) depicting real or mythological events, and with niches containing 504 statues of the seated Buddha. The topmost platform supports a massive bell-shaped “stupa” surrounded by 72 smaller stupas, each containing a Buddha.




Morning fog lingers in the valley

As Indonesia’s most visited destination it is usually crowded. People were everywhere on the structure, posing for photos beside everything. I was asked to join many groups for photos, and even hold small children, so I guess that despite increasing international visitation, many locals still regard westerners with some curiosity.

The large central stupa is surrounded by many small
bell-like stupas, each containing a Buddha
(this one has been opened up to show the Buddha)

Our next destination, the 8th century Prambanan Temple, also a World Heritage site, was quite different. Some say it was the Hindu response to the nearby Buddhist structure at Borobudur. There are several temple clusters, but the main site contains 9 tall pagodas surrounded by the ruins of many small structures. The site was badly damaged by a severe earthquake in 2006. At the centre of a rectangle of the formed by the 4 smaller structures is the largest pagoda (46m high). Each massive structure, decorated with carvings of Hindu deities, has a central chamber reached by steps at the front face. Around these large structures were smaller structures, and beyond the wall surrounding the main structures are the remains of many small structures. Restoration and reassembly will be a massive jigsaw puzzle.

One of the Prambanan structures

That evening in Jogya we ate local delicacies at a street stall where we sat cross legged on tarpaulins at long low tables, and later at another stall we sat on the footpath and drank “burnt coffees” – tall glasses of filter coffee with a small floating piece of charcoaled timber. It was a strange but not unpleasant flavour sensation. Edih heard music indicating traditional dancing so we got to see a Wayang dance performance. Several short pieces gave me a taste of the Javanese way of using dance and music to tell traditional stories.

The highlight of the morning was our second stop - Karaton Ngayogyakarta Palace – home of the Sultan of Jogya (the city is “his”). At the main pavilion we found seats for the exhibition of Wayang dancing. Again there was a “camera tax”. I asked a Nikon user what he paid – Rp1000. I said I was charged 2000. He asked why, so I said that they knew Canon was twice the camera. He laughed. Canon - Nikon rivalry is international. The “Wayang” mythological and cautionary stories comprise many small “scenes” involving almost 300 named characters which depict various aspects of the perpetual struggle between good and evil.




Javanese dancer as the Monkey



Hand-made puppets used
to tell traditional stories

 At the rear of the sultan’s palace were workshops and studios where we watched artisans making leather shadow puppets and more conventional puppets. Nearby we saw the various stages in Batik cloth production. The beautiful cloths are the result of lengthy and laborious efforts – tracing out the cartoons, waxing (in stages), “painting” on the dyes, setting, boiling to remove the wax and more.



These were the highlights. The main purpose of the trip was to fulfil the wish to see Edih and visit Borobudur together (as dreamed of in 1973), and both goals were achieved. It’s unlikely we will meet again but it was a brief and satisfying reunion. I returned to Bali and the College on Monday morning.

Online again - Blogs to come

Yesterday the college IT team provided me with a network link to my room.  Although it is slower than the link I previously enjoyed it is a relief to have a working link again.  Now I feel "connected" again.   I'll post a report on my trip to Jogya and then prepare a Photo gallery of shots from that trip.

No blogs for a while

Early this week I lost the network connection to my room, so I must use a shared PC in the student Pool.  It's terribly slow, and riddled with viruses, so I reluctantly must defer future Blog submissions.  I may be able to get the connection repaired, but that didn't sound likely, or I may be able to prepare submissions on the laptop and walk it into the office of the IT manager and use his connection.  Possible, but not at all convenient. 

Just a quick update.  Last Friday I flew to Jogjakarta in Central Java where I again met my friend Edih Suwadji, whom I last saw in Adelaide in February 1974.  With his son Denny we visited several places, but the highlight was the 8th century temple complex called "Borobudur".  Find it on Wiki - it's the Indonesian equivalent of Angkor Wat.  In Adelaide in 1973 we used to say "One day - Borobudur".  Well, it finally happened.  I returned to the College on Monday morning.

Next post will be ?????

Still watching the rice fields (an update)

It's about a month since my "rice rambles" (Why am I watching the rice field?) and it's time to pass on an update.  Growth has been steady, despite recent wet weather.  We are still in the "dry season", but "dry" is a relative term and is more like "not as wet as the wet season".  We've had regular heavy falls and some have caused localised flooding of nearby low lying areas. 


The padi after a month.  Drying out between floodings.



It is customary to alternately flood and dry the fields to encourage maximum growth. The regular flooding not only waters the plant (rice is a thirsty crop) but greatly reduces the growth of weeds and competing plants. As the fields dry out the farmer removes weeds by hand - rice farming really is a labour intensive activity. Flooding is managed by directing irrigation water into channels feeding the upper fields so that water reticulates down to lower levels through small gaps in the retaining walls which define the levels of the fields. When enough water has been added the farmer hoes soil back into the gaps to stop water movement. It seems to take about a week for the water to soak in or evaporate away to leave the field in muddy state. The frequent rain sometimes keeps water levels topped up so the field stays wet for longer, but I guess the old farmers take the vagaries of the weather in their stride.

In Bali the rice field is called a "sawah". We know them as "paddy fields". "Paddy" is the anglicised form of the Malay and Indonesian word "padi" which is the word used for rice on the stalk and growing in the field, not for harvested rice grains ("beras") or cooked rice grains ("nasi").


After a month's growth the plants ("padi") in the field beside the driveway are about 50cm high. Depending on the variety planted, crops grow to between 1 and 2 metres before maturity and harvesting. The farmer has other fields beside the one I see regularly. One, just beyond the field I am watching, was planted earlier and heads of rice grain are appearing. To keep birds away the farmer (or an elderly female relative) regularly emerges from the small hut between the fields and walks around the field boundary with a stick about a metre long to which is attached a piece of black plastic about 50 cm square. The stick looks like a small flag which is waved and then snapped back and forth to make a cracking sound which is meant to keep birds away.


Strings, flags and rattlers above a field bordering the College.

Another way to scare birds is to place many bamboo poles upright around the field and run strings between them. Some poles sport flags, or large plastic bags; some have little wind vanes or windmills that whir as the blades turn. Along the strings are hung flags or scraps of plastic, tin cans with stones or ball bearings, and other things that rattle. When birds are spotted, or just as a precaution, the farmer tugs on a couple of strings which cause all the poles, banners, cans and so on to shake, flap or rattle. When I'm outside I hear the cans rattling throughout the day.


Around Dalung well managed rice fields often produce 3 crops a year, with an average crop cycle of 4 months.  As this field was planted a couple of weeks after my arrival I doubt I'll see the full cycle, but I have seen all stages in other fields around the college.

Grain forms in a field beside the College

Rice fact of the day:  On average, Australia produces enough rice to feed 40 million people one meal of rice a day for a year (source: Rice Growers Association of Aust).  That's about 1% of world consumption.







An even wider audience than first thought!

Two posts in one night.  Amazing.  After posting my long article I started exploring the "stats" facility and found additional information.  

The Blog pages have been viewed by people in the following countries:

Australia 593 (that's total pages read, not different people)

Indonesia 271

United States 37

Canada 25

Thailand 16

India 7

Italy 4

Netherlands 2

Taiwan 2

Israel 1

I know folk in 6 of the countries listed, so the "surprises" are Canada, Netherlands, Taiwan and Israel (I guess the Israeli found me by accident but didn't look past the first page).

Have I been lazy.... or busy?

It's been a while since I posted my last blog or photo gallery, and I have missed my goal of posting something at least weekly.  You'll have to believe that I've thought of it often, but that's not much good - pages don't write themselves.  I've stil got photos which I haven't downloaded and labelled. 

Looking back at the time since my last post I see I've really done quite a lot, and although much has been the same, there have been many things which have been different.

What is the same?  Well, mainly the weather.  I can't locate online weather forecasts for "my town" of Dalung as it doesn't seem to warrant online forecasts.  But Denpasar, the capital of Bali, is just 15 km away.  Although weather in Dalung is not the same as Denpasar, the trends are probably similar.  And apart from "is it raining?" and "do clouds cover all or just part of the sky?" the weather doesn't vary much.  This week the 10 day forecast for Denpasar was daily maximum of 29, overnight minimum of 25 - for 8 of the 10 days.  On the other 2 days the range was 26-30.  I do miss a bit of fluctuation, but now only the humidity fluctuates - between 75 and 95 - and that has been knocking me about, as has the chili which is in just about everything I get if I eat out or buy my lunch.

Before I get onto what has been different I'll quote some statistics.  I found the "stats" section for my blog.  The following "hits" have been recorded ......

  * Australia 35

  * Indonesia 5
  * Netherlands 2
  * Thailand 2
  * United States 2
  * Canada 1

These represent contact from different computer addresses and not just the number of times the Blog has been accessed since I started writing 6 weeks ago!  After all, I've logged on more times than the 5 for Indonesia!  Some more "hits" would be encouraging, but I can truthfully say that I have an international audience spanning Australia, Asia, Europe and North America.  Thankyou for reading, and also thanks for the comments you leave.

Now, what is different?  Obviously not weather!  "I've been to a wedding" - nope, used that line before, but this one was number 3 and the reception was on my back lawn at the College.  Christine, the Director's Secretary, was married and I joined about 15 staff members in singing at the service.  Those who know me well may laugh at the mental picture, but yes, I did!  It was a wedding song, and I carefully translated the words into English so I knew what I was singing (in Bahasa Indonesian). 

"Ayu" ("beautiful") strikes a pose for "Mister Paul"

The entertainers at the reception were female impersonators in Balinese dancers' costumes.  When I got in close for pictures I attracted their attention, and a stream of jokes about "Mister Paul" and "kangaroos"  followed throughout their act.  Perhaps it's just as well I don't know what they were saying.  I retreated back into the crowd of guests (about 1500) but still the comments and, I suspect, lewd invitations came my way.  The couple beside me had tears running down their cheeks as they gave me snippets of translation.  They had words of advice for all the wedding party but the bride's younger brother came in for a good deal of attention.  The picture shows "Ayu" (a common Balinese name meaning "beautiful") hamming it up for me.  After this I moved away as fast as I could.

There will be another reception here on Sunday.  I had intended to "gatecrash" (after all, it's my back yard) but I met the bride and groom who invited me to come along.  That will make "4 weddings".  I just need "and a funeral" to match the film title (Hugh Grant and Andie MacDowell, 1994 - for those too young, or who can't remember).

Last Sunday I was up early, ready for collection at 6:30 (yes, AM) to attend the service at the church in the next town.  It was a harvest-thanksgiving service with fund-raiser.  The front of the church was filled with offerings of fruit, vegetables, bags of rice, and items of processed food.  After the service these were auctioned off as a fundraiser to assist the construction of the child-centre.  Congregation members bid and outbid each other for items being auctioned at many times the original values.  The pool of auctioneers made great sport of the occasion, especially if a bidder lost track of the current bid and offered a lower bid.  It was a very entertaining morning.

Now that the academic year has started, the college has been humming with the sound of students, and their motor cycles.  Classes start at 7:30 and students start arriving in number soon after 7.  As one of the scooter parks is below my window there is no sleeping in - but especially when I'm taking a 7:30 class.  On the past 2 Wednesdays I've taken 7:30 - 9:10, 9:25 - 11:10 and 11:20 - 13:00 classes.  Same material, equivalent streams of students in their first semester.  I move between class rooms so there is not much time to do more than have a sip of water before I start again.  By 1 o'clock I'm emotionally elated, but physically quite tired.  Just calling the roll is a challenge - I apologise to students before mangling their often lengthy names.  Last Monday I had a class 13:00 - 14:30, a coaching session 14:45 - 15:30 and a class 15:45 - 18:15.  These are the classes with students, and I'm picking up more (I'm a handy "relief teacher").  I have a great deal of flexibility and freedom as my topic is usually "listening and speaking", but I don't just talk about anything - I try to reinforce the curriculum material.  I also have 4 sessions per week with staff members, and my times in the training restaurant. 

At lunches and dinners I had the same menu 5 times in 2 weeks.  At each "sitting" I have a small captive audience of 3 at the table plus the student waiting on the table.  At the first sitting I got students with little English, so the conversation was a bit laboured, but on the other occasions we've had good chats, and I also take the waiter "outside the script".  Most have reacted very well as I sprung little "surprises" or situations on them.  I've had some students try to get back to my table - which is a great compliment - but I get shared around.  The dinners are good as it saves me preparing or buying something, although it is unusual eating dinner at about 4:30.  No such thing as a free lunch - I certainly work for mine!

For a day I was a millionaire, at least in rupiah.  I had to withdraw cash to pay for a ticket for a weekend trip I will make on Sept 17th.  The return air fare was about $230, but as A$1 = 8,000 Rupiah (approx) I had almost 2 million!  It was quite a stack of notes.

Yesterday after almost 6 hours in class and follow-up I attended the last 2 hours of a workshop raising awareness of "stategic planning" - what is it, why do it, and how to begin?  It's just "overview" material at this stage.  When the convenor came to my table for comments about "resistance to change" I contributed some ideas which were translated for the assembly.  I've had more than a little experience - whilst with CSIRO I undertook an extensive management course, and although it was focussed on IT Service Provision and Management it contained much generic material about advocating and implementing organisational change.  The convenor commended me for my insights and afterwards asked about my experience.  I was able give a very simple definition of "change" which says succinctly, and without "management speak":  "Change is the process of moving from where we are now to where we want to be".  Most people here just identify me as "English teacher" but I've also been talking to the IT manager about details and limitations of his systems.  OK, so I'm not a "Renaissance Man" but isn't it satisfying to be multi-talented!  (I'd put a "smiley face" here, but the blog toolbar doesn't have one!)

The teacher and staff groups are challenging and rewarding, and even fun, and the members show great enthusiasm.  Although a few manage the "th" sound very well, most have some (through to great) difficulty with "th" (it comes out as "t", or often "d" - "thinner" said as "dinner" or "tinner"; "father" as "fudder" etc). English is full of "th" sounds and it's an important sound to master - homework, more homework! "Sh" and "Ch" are also tricky for some.  So my instruction goes beyond mere conversation practice, but has an element of speech pathology and phonics as well.

Those of you who are teachers may say that I don't seem to have many "contact hours".  As my brief is to "improve English conversation skills amongst staff and students" I'm doing just that for hours each day.   If I don't have specific commitments (classes, preparation) I join staff in the lunchroom and talk with whoever is there.  I move around the grounds and building talking with students, housekeepers, librarians, reception staff, groundsmen, guards and drivers. Some (guards, groundsmen for example) can just handle simple greetings.  Those with enough English can start at a comfortable level, and I then try to move through courtesies to some simple questions - just as icebreakers. Some are confident (but not necessarily competent speakers, but they'll try), and others need gentle coaxing.  I've had some engaging and exciting conversations with students who really made an effort and asked me many questions about home and my time here.  It's a very dynamic activity, and one which involves as much effort on my part as on the other speaker.  If the speakers are struggling to find the right word I give them time before offering some suggestions (or sometimes just a wild guess if it really isn't obvious).  I don't jump onto random errors, especially if the speaker usually gets it right, but I will repeat or rephrase things that are consistently mispronounced.  I can do it by rephrasing and repeating back what has just been said; the speaker will often then say it correctly after me.  Perhaps the hardest part is keeping within a limited vocabulary - simple, not simplistic.  Even with just a core vocabulary I still maintain correct grammar - I don't drop "a" and "the", or just use present tense verbs when the past or future is obviously needed as that would undermine my other efforts.  Still, it is a challenge to be clear, simple, correct and encouraging - and never patronising or censorial.

We are at the start of an extra long weekend.  The Muslim fasting period of Ramadan has just ended and across Indonesia people in their millions are travelling to their home villages and towns for celebrations.  Government and many large business offices, banks, schools, and shops owned by Muslims all close down from Thursday to Monday.  Even though Bali is mainly a Hindu province there are still many Muslims.  As the college shuts down I have a chance to get out for some visits - unfortunately the roads and transport facilities are packed, and the places I most want to see, such as the Bali Museum and some galleries are also closed.  Today one staff member took me out to some sites, but it rained from almost the moment we left - definitely a "wash out". 

I probably could have kept half of this back and submitted it in a couple of days, so I could claim 2 postings in less than a week, but I'll post it all at once. 

Here's my last bit of "what's different".  I've just chased a cat down the corridor and managed to land a swift kick up the backside (bare feet only, so more of a "surprise" to the cat rather than any harm).   There are several miserable looking feral cats which prowl around the buildings, and even come into the corridor - and I'm up on level 4 (that's 53 steps up and down, several times a day).  The outside doors are always open to encourage air movement, although there isn't usually much breeze.  They knock over and raid the waste bins along the corridor, sometimes they shred the Welcome mats or "scent them", or they just patrol and howl all night.  The ginger tom is the loudest, but tonight's tabby isn't far behind.  Just for a moment I "got my own back".  That's one cat which wont reappear quickly. 

And on that brief moment of elation I'll sign off. 

This is "Paul in Bali".   Sampai jumpa  (until next time)

 

Photo Gallery - PPLP Graduation

double click the image to enter the gallery

Wisuda XXV - Another “graduation” but different

I shouldn’t call it a “graduation” as students were not receiving degrees but certificates and diplomas. Officially this occasion was a “Wisuda”, the 25th for the PPLP part of Dhyana Pura. The PPLP is the “Centre for Tourism Education and Training”. It offers quality training courses of 1 – 3 years duration in areas such as “Housekeeping Services”, “Food and Beverage Service” and “Public Relations and Secretarial”. The first part (“Yudisium”) was held at the college on 24th August and the public part, the “Wisuda” took place on Friday 27th August. This is the grand occasion where family and friends see the students receive their qualifications and prizes.


The transport convoy left the college soon at 7 and made its way through heavy traffic around the northern and eastern edges of Denpasar to the Bali Beach Hotel in Sanur. At about 8:30 I took my seat in the front row wearing my formal batik shirt with small spray of local flowers. The hall filled. The special guests and dignitaries were ceremonially led into the main assembly hall by 4 students in elaborate local costume.

Costumed students lead guests and senior staff into the auditorium

The gamelan orchestra struck up with a flourish, and “Wisuda XXV” got underway. 

A section of the gamelan orchestra

A troupe of 5 dancers gave a stunning and enchanting display, with the traditional eye, head and body movements, and the characteristic hand-finger movements. I was well placed to get good photos – see the Web Album (linked as Blog on these pages).

Balinese dancer at opening of ceremony

The ceremony took about 3 hours as 262 students received their certificates or diplomas. Then there were the prizes, the special awards etc, the oath of allegiance to nation and a pledge to live up to the expectations of the Alumni, and so on.

College Director Pak Joko presents a
student with medal of achievement

It was a very colourful and attractive occasion. The boys wore school uniform but the girls shone in their local costumes – the beautiful dresses and blouses which I’d seen at weddings. The togas and caps were not worn – they are for the University (STIM) graduates.

Musicians at hotel entrance

After the ceremony guests, staff, student attendants and the choir had lunch in the hotel’s dining room which had attractive views over the gardens and out to sea. After lunch the staff returned to the ballroom for photographs with students. I lost track of the number of students who requested photos of me (novelty factor I suppose as I didn’t know any of them). When we left we found a small band of musicians seated at the entrance playing music on traditional instruments and producing an attractive and exotic sound.

Some of the students who
assisted with presentations
 and acted as ushers

The timing of my arrival at Dhyana Pura has been very fortunate – I’ve attended the STIM graduation (separate blog), the student orientation week, and now the presentation ceremony for PPLP students. These occasions allowed me to experience the local practices at the start and the end of the students’ association with the college. My next 2 months will involve me in the routine of classes and training activities. 

My congratulations to the successful students, and to all who made the Wisuda such a colourful and enjoyable occasion. 

Thankyou for having me there.

Another wedding - make it a double

I'm working my way towards a tally to match the title of the Hugh Grant film "Four Weddings and a Funeral".  I'm half way there with weddings, and with another in 2 weeks time I'm confident of reaching that part of the tally.  Although I have not been to a funeral I did attend a formal "lying in state" type of occasion at a Balinese house, but that's another story, and not a real funeral.

Last Saturday I was privileged to attend a double wedding,  Not only were two sisters married in the same ceremony, but the parents of the brides celebrated their 35th wedding anniversary.  Such a coincidence of events called for a big celebration, and this certainly was.  The grounds of the Dhyana Pura Resort Hotel (which is owned by an agency of the Protestant Church in Bali) were decorated and lit up for this festive occasion attended by many guests.   

The hotel grounds provided a splendid
setting for the wedding celebration.

I've had personal experience of getting families together for wedding photos, but my experiences were nothing compared with the task at this and also the first wedding I attended (at Blimbingsari - see an earlier post).  Two couples and three families (remember the brides were of the same family) adds up to lots of people.  Just as well the stage provided a sufficiently large set on which to arrange everyone.

Getting the families together for photos

(group extended way out on each side!)

The cultural elements fascinated me, as at Blimbingsari.  The sound of the gamelan orchestra is captivating, and the dancers were just stunning in their movements, gestures and costumes.  Apart from the obvious larger body movements you must also watch the more subtle hand and finger movements, which along with facial expressions and eye movements, play important parts in the dance routines.

Balinese dancer - just watch her eyes

The wedding outfits of brides and grooms are modelled on costumes of past nobles, and the grooms carry an ornamental dagger, or short sword.  Philipp, new husband of Ziphora, is German.  He was kitted out splendidly, but looked just a little uncomfortable in his traditional Balinese costume.  Philipp's parents were also appropriately attired.  Many women were sporting the beautiful and ornate hair clasps which I've seen at the more formal functions I've been to.  Most are fine examples of the jeweller's art.

Ziphora and Philipp - queen and king for a day

All the social events I've attended have involved feasting, and this was no exception.  Snacks were available for guests as they arrived, and later several food serveries catered to the large crowd of guests and offered an interesting selection of traditional dishes. 

I went back to the grounds the next morning and it was as if the event had never taken place as the grounds had been returned to their normal state.

My best wishes to Garry and Agnes, Philipp and Ziphora for long and happy lives together.  Thank you for letting me be part of your special occasion.